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I had almost forgotten about the OLPC give-one-get-one campaign I took the opportunity to participate in last year. Well, the thing finally came today. I wasn’t really all that anxious to get it, so it didn’t bother me at all that it took a while. I thought it was more important that the real recipients get theirs first.

Anyway, here are a few pictures of a kind of unboxing. It’s really more of a series of pictures of the packaging/parts, since I had already unboxed the thing by the time I took these.

Simple cardboard packaging and plastic bags for protection

All parts arranged on the open box

Front of welcome brochure and power brick

The OLPC itself with the two random color elements that make it “unique”

Back of the OLPC, with battery removed

Battery and welcome letter

Inside of welcome brochure

Back of welcome brochure

The battery actually came mostly charged, which was a nice surprise. Turning the laptop on for the first time took me through a simple naming step and then right to the “hub”/home screen. It took a while to get there, but it was really, really simple. No series of screens that ask for all kinds of information, like on regular PCs.

My initial exploration of the software took me around to the Journal, Webcam app (called Recorder), Paint, Measure (seemed to enable you to analyze / show the sound from the microphone), wireless setup, Browser and a few other things. Looks very interesting so far.

Both my kids have expressed interest in fiddling with it. Should be a lot of fun.

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Here’s a quick tip: If you’re a Netflix subscriber and are having problems with the WatchNow feature, take a look at whether you have any caching proxy servers between the PC you’re using to watch a show and the Netflix servers (yes, that’s a long path and a very general statement, I know).

If, for example, you have a home network server with a caching proxy feature, try turning the proxy feature off. That helped me with MediaError(1400) problems, anyway.

If your ISP has a caching proxy, see if there’s a way around it, too. It may be a source of problems.

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[I may have a hard drive mini-series on my hands here, see previous post.]

If your computer has performance problems and you can’t quite explain why (you’ve ruled out startup items, spyware and such ilk), it may be worth looking at how your IDE controller manages hard drive data transfer. It should be using (U)DMA, unless your computer and hard drive is from the stone ages.

To check, go to Control Panel - System:

Click Device Manager and expand the IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers node:

Now double-click on a Primary or Secondary IDE Channel and go to the Advanced Settings tab:

If the Transfer Mode combo box doesn’t say “DMA if available”, you can change it, then restart the computer. That should switch Current Transfer Mode to (Ultra) DMA Mode (X) if your drive supports it, which it should.

But what if Current Transfer Mode doesn’t say (Ultra) DMA Mode (X) after that? What if it stays in PIO mode no matter what you set the Transfer Mode to and no matter how many times you restart? That’s what happened to my system. And it was slow as molasses starting up, since my boot/system drive was in that mode.

It turns out that Windows keeps track of the transfer statistics between your drive and the rest of the system. If Windows encounters a lot of transfer errors, it slowly dials the transfer mode back. So it can go from Ultra DMA Mode 5, to Mode 4, Mode 3, etc. all the way back to PIO mode. If Windows encounters DMA transfer timeouts, it will immediately go back to PIO mode. According to this support article on Seagate’s web site, those errors will be logged in the Windows Event Log, but I guess it happened so long ago on my system that the entries have been lost in the meantime.

According to the same Seagate article, the solution is to delete the corresponding IDE Channel device from Device Manager, restart Windows, let the system re-detect the device, reinstall the driver and restart one more time. Now DMA transfer mode should be back, and your system should perform much better.

You still might want to investigate why the mode got switched back to PIO. Look through the event log using Event Viewer, filtering by Event source type “disk”. Also, check the ribbon cable you use to connect the hard drives. It may have come loose, or it may not be of the right kind (it has to have 80 conductors, not 40) or quality. Using ribbon cables with too many hard drive changes can cause loose/broken connections between the connector pins and the cable.

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As I mentioned in my last post, I went to the local Fry’s recently to get a replacement hard drive. What prompted me to do that was a warning from the BIOS of my computer saying that the S.M.A.R.T. status of the drive was bad. I’m glad I listened to that warning. After replacing the drive, I put it in a separate machine to perform a safe erase (using Eraser, which can also be found on SourceForge), but not until looking at the S.M.A.R.T. information using SpeedFan. It told me that there were over 65000 excess relocated sectors, which means that the drive basically was running out of spaces to move bad sectors to when needed.

After this exercise I installed SpeedFan on my main machine as well, and found that I have another hard drive that’s not too healthy. So I may have to go out and get another replacement soon.

I also found a monitoring tool called ActiveSmart, which costs money (unlike SpeedFan, which is free), and can alert you via email or network messages when a drive is beginning to deteriorate.

While I’m on the subject of hard drives, another handy tool is DTemp, which shows you the temperature of your hard drives in the Windows notification area (and can show S.M.A.R.T. data, too). Keeping the temperature of your hard drives as low as possible is important to make them perform optimally and make them last as long as possible.

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